Thursday, February 26, 2015
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Thursday, February 19, 2015
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Lots of people have thought about dropping out of the rat race and retire to a live aboard boat as a way to encounter the easier life and travel to exotic areas. There are many advantages related with this sort of life-style, and waking up inside the morning towards the smell from the salt air and friendly neighborhood tropical birds trying to find their morning breakfast inside your backyard are certainly in the leading two! As soon as youve made the choice to live aboard a boat, then there are several far more choices that you require to determine on.
What variety of boat will it be, a mono-hull or possibly a catamaran? Whats the length of hull that you are seeking? How much money are you prepared to invest in to the boat and exactly where will you dock it? There will be a lot significantly less space than what you happen to be used to inside a home, and storage locations will come at a premium. Some boats have a lot more space than other folks, and you will quickly find that out if you start attending boat shows around the nation or world. Just how much comfort are you willing to offer up for a life of adventure around the higher seas?
Mono-hulls are usually what folks think about when boating comes to mind, but they do have a lot of drawbacks. Theyve a deep keel to be able to assist as ballast and to maintain the vessel upright, which is extremely valuable should you be out on the ocean! But because of this keel, there will also be a great quantity of rocking and rolling from side to side as waves hit the boat. Should you arent utilized to this motion, you could very nicely end up with a poor case of sea sickness which will spoil your cruise. Mono-hulls do are inclined to have much more space onboard for living and storage even so, since the shape on the hull is quite conducive to that in relation to depth. You may immediately comprehend though, that the width or beam leaves significantly to become preferred and is usually narrower with regard to the total length.
In my opinion the hull of choice is the catamaran, which is a significantly wider or beamy vessel, and some from the larger boats are so steady in rough climate that a champagne glass sitting around the galley table wont tip or fall more than! The best length to get a cruising catamaran to comfortably accommodate a married couple is anyplace from 36 feet to 55 feet, and also the price goes up very a bit every foot which is added on. A catamaran is developed to sit on best from the water more than a mono-hull, and is normally considerably wider in beam. By way of example, the typical 50 foot mono-hull might possess a 12 -16 foot beam, but a 50 foot catamaran might possess a 26 - 30 foot beam! This genuinely leads to stability in extremely rough seas, with a enormous reduction in the side to side rolling of the mono-hulls. A catamaran has two hulls with an open space in between them for the seas to pass via and normally the galley and living region sitting out in the water in between the hulls. This leads to very good visibility above the water, and a nice wide region for cooking, consuming, and entertaining oneself and guests. Some models will have the galley located down in one of many two hulls to make even more living space above. The sleeping regions, cabins, and heads are located down within the hulls on either side of the boat, and based on the size can typically accommodate as much as 4 couples.
The greatest drawback Ive personally seen with catamaran boats may be the "turnaround room" when standing down in the hulls. I always do an "elbow test" when down within the hulls, which implies that I am standing with my hands on my hips and my elbows out and after that I stand in one particular spot and turn about inside a circle. If my elbows touch or knock something, it really is an extremely cramped space! Unfortunately, a lot of the vessels Ive tested had this drawback, but I did locate one particular 52 foot South African boat that passed this test. In reality, there was so much living location and storage space on this boat that I call it a "condo catamaran"! It was pure luxury, with as much as six cabins on a standard layout, or for the discerning owner theyre able to have one particular complete hull just for them which is described as the "owners layout". That is the layout that truly appealed to me, and can provide much closet space as well as a very private living region for all those lengthy voyages with guests. I encourage everybody who is looking for the perfect vessel to go to as a lot of boat shows as theyre able to so they can personally check all the different factors involved and to find out if its some thing youll be able to live on. The Miami International Boat Show will normally have a lot of both mono-hulls and catamarans for viewing and comparison.
An additional factor or decision that youll need to make is whether or not it really is going to be energy or sail. That normally is dependent upon your background and where you plan on boating to. For those individuals organizing on doing an worldwide trip, they may well seriously contemplate purchasing a sailboat since its going to become a lot less expensive and there genuinely arent as a lot of boats that may carry adequate fuel for all those trans oceanic voyages. For all those individuals organizing to stay closer to shore or mostly coastal travel might look for power boats, even though the fuel will nevertheless be an issue for many trips. There are some boats that are made for extended range expedition voyages that are much less than 55 feet lengthy, and they are able to carry adequate fuel to comfortably transit the Pacific or any other in depth cruise. However, for any energy boat of this size, be prepared to devote close to a million U.S. dollars or much more to get a brand new boat. By far the vast majority of around the world cruisers will choose a sailing vessel, either catamaran or mono-hull. Catamarans tend to be far more pricey as a result of size and desirability of them, and they also may have higher marina fees linked because of their widths. In fact, an excellent percentage of them may not fit in some marinas as a result of how wide theyre, and will need to anchor out in the harbor and use a dinghy to travel back and forth towards the shore. This can be really time consuming and tiring, particularly when travelling back and forth with many packages of food, drinks, or other things required to restock the boat. These are the varieties of factors you will need to have to think about prior to you determine on and purchase your reside aboard boat.
Are you currently an skilled sailor or boater, or will you may need to arrange for some classes to understand much more about being around the water? There are plenty of Coast Guard Auxiliary or Energy Squadron facilities about within the U.S. that may give the proper coaching required to safely operate your new vessel. Its crucial to really feel comfortable together with the operation of the boat, and take it offshore for brief excursions as frequently as you are able to before you embark on any extended cruise away from shore. Become an specialist, right after all, your life will be at stake! Be ready for any scenario, regardless of whether its medical or mechanical, and know what to do to repair it. Take a marine mechanic course, because in case your boats engine breaks down far out at sea you will want to know what to complete to correct the issue. You will not have the ability to just bring the boat into the nearest shop at that point!
There is going to be many choices that you are going to must make prior to choosing and getting your new boat and most likely training youll need to be able to safely operate it, but the advantages of this life style more than outweigh the negatives. Youll need to be ready for any total changeover when compared with living ashore, as a result of the cramped conditions and inconveniences linked with boat living. Choose wisely, find out all it is possible to prior to you buy, and get ready for the time of ones life! It is what youve always wanted, so get around and take the plunge!
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
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Should you completely appreciate duck hunting within the waters then it really is fairly crucial that you require to construct your boat utilizing duck hunting boat plans. That is, if you get pleasure from establishing items along with your person hands as efficiently.
Significantly of mindful organizing goes in to the improvement of a duck hunting boat. Investing the time and operate to do this can enable you to full the project with no possessing any glitches and in no time at all./p>
As a result, it is your safest wager to obtain the time to go greater than some vital consideration in generating your own duck hunting boat. speaking from encounter, a few of these products are:
Size On the BOAT
You must must pick early on how large would be the boat you are going to make. A few of the products to think about will be the possible of the boat too as the hunting gear you happen to be preparing to think about with you with every hunting journeys.
You must need to ensure youve sufficient space for the gear you could be going to carry. Also, you would want to have constructed in storage for some devices like fuel tanks and hunting guns. This really is to maintain some safety measure in region.
Layout
Very 1st element to preserve in thoughts in determining on the layout on the boat is the form of surroundings in which your game is normally identified. In the event the video game would think about you to marshes and ponds, then it can be far greater that you just go for flat bottom boats as you can very easily maneuver this kind of boats in such environments.
An extra issue you also have to preserve in thoughts is that the boat should allow for some form of camouflage. For this objective, most boats utilised for hunting are painted green. This will permit you to hide successfully from your prey therefore growing your very good results in hunting.
Moreover, you truly need to also take into account obtaining some camouflage hunting gears like camouflage lifejackets as well as the like. This would surely assist you effectively catch a lot much more prey.
DUCK HUNTING BOAT Ideas
To produce this seemingly daunting job much less challenging, you wish to use a appropriate duck hunting boat plans. And also although you happen to be at it, I strongly propose that you just in no way settle for just any pla. Rather, you have to choose best rated top quality boat plans for this project.
This way, you get a much more elaborate boat constructing programs that aids you stay away from confusion although you ar in the middle of improvement. This on your own will make the activity a complete entire lot easier and less expensive inside the prolonged operate also.
Monday, February 2, 2015
The Perfect Pump
Worst because the weather in New York has been awful: cold with rain that varied in intensity from a miserable drizzle, to tropical storm Andrea. When I rowed around the harbor this morning, the effect of the weather was evident in all the bare booms -- nearly half the boats didnt have their sails on yet.
Best, because business has been good and Ive been busy building a new iPhone app for a corporate client. I never complain about too much business these days, even if it interferes with sailing and building and finishing my book.
Also best because Helena and I spent a week in coastal Maine, seeing all the beautiful wooden boats from Boothbay Harbor to Camden to Brooklin and the Wooden Boat School.
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| Me in Wooden Boats workshop |
With all the rain, Ive been bailing Cabin Boy more than Ive been rowing him. That meant scooping out gallons of water with a cut-off plastic bleach bottle. Ive always used that sort of bailer because... well, because everyone else did. And lets face it, whats more appropriate for bailing out a white plastic dinghy than half a white plastic bottle?
But after scooping out a hundred gallons or so over the course of a particularly bad week, I got to thinking that there must be a better way... there must be!
While I was in Maine, I bought a copy of Hervey Garrett Smiths classic "The Marlinspike Sailor". This book was printed in 1956, three years after I was born, and its a collection of useful and interesting things to make, like rope mats, sea chests, canvas buckets, and... and... plans for an old-fashioned wooden dingy pump.
Actually, the word plans is an exaggeration. Like lots of olde time writers, Hervey assumed his readers were more-than-competent woodworkers who didnt need no stinkin plans. The book supplies a few drawings of the two valves needed and one of the finished pump, along with some inspirational words, such as these, telling of the first time he borrowed an old-fashioned wooden pump:
The pump raised an enormous stream of water, and after a lifetime familiarity with all sorts of metal pumps I was struck by its quietness. There was none of the screeching, scraping, rusty clatter I had always known, and for the first time in my life I enjoyed pumping.But a few scant drawings and a few inspirational words were all I needed to start drawing the design for my own pump -- the perfect pump for getting gallons of cold rain out of poor old Cabin Boy. I started working on the it as soon as I got home.
So how does a wooden pump work? Hervey doesnt explain, presumably because everyone in his day knew how they worked. I had no idea, but it didnt take long to figure it out. These are simple machines, whose history is well known. They were invented by a Greek (of course) named Ctesibius -- known as the father of pneumatics -- sometime around 250 B.C.
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| Simple lift pump |
On the downstroke, the lower valve closes, the upper one opens, and water is forced through the upper valve into the barrel above the valve.
On the next upstroke, the water above the upper valve is forced out of the spout, while the barrel below the upper valve again fills with water.
Its all much simpler than it sounds.
I again called on my scrap pile for the needed materials. I had a few old red cedar planks that had once been the floor of a patio deck, I think. The were weathered and too thick for the pump, but running them through the planer took care of both problems.
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| Machining lumber from old cedar decking |
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| 3/4" planks milled down to 1/2" |
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| Rabbeting joint |
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| Pump sides, roughly jointed |
Here is the simple lower valve. Its basically a check valve, consisting of a wooden block with a hole cut in it, and a rubber flap tacked on top.
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| Bottom of pump with lower valve |
I used copper nails to tack down the rubber, so hopefully they wont rust away any time soon.
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| Lower valve open |
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| Upper valve attached directly to plunger |
The rubber bends upwards, opening the upper valve on the downstroke, but lies flat on the square block, closing the valve on the upstroke.
Those are the moving parts.
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| View of upper valve showing placement of copper nails |
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| Spout assembly, glued |
I recently treated myself to a set of Fuller counter-sinks, so I wanted to use bronze screws to hold the pump together. After drilling and counter-sinking all the holes, I dry assembled the pump to make sure everything fit properly. It already looked pretty darn good, but would it work?!?!
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| Dry assembled for fit |
Of course, once the varnish can was open, there was no stopping me, so testing had to wait a few days while I gave the pump pieces several coats of exterior varnish.
Once that was done, I bedded and screwed the whole thing together. Naturally, it was a sunny, dry day (I must have scared the rain away), perfect for a photo shoot and test on the front lawn in front of Helenas garden.
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| Varnished and screwed and bedded together. |
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| Bottom detail showing water inlets |
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| Detail showing top and spout |
| Video demo - click to watch |
So! No adjustments required. I bed down the top cap to keep the water from squirting out, and my olde-time wooden pump was done.
Now if it would only rain...
Next Episode: Its about time
Cabin Boy Refit
After valiantly following in the Blue Moons wake for 2000 miles... in turns taxi, cargo ship, and conversational ice breaker... on three occasions -- one critical -- the little boat that carried my extra anchor to deep water, allowing me to warp the Blue Moon out of a nasty situation... for all these reasons and more, Cabin Boy will always be more friend than boat.
When Helena and I pulled Cabin Boy from Huntington Harbor on the day before Thanksgiving, 2010, he had a quarter inch of green slime on his bottom, rusted rowlocks, and bare wood that should have proved to me, once and for all, that linseed oil is NOT a practical finish for wooden boats. (Of course, I needed more convincing, but thats another story.)
He was also 20 lb. overweight from the salt water hed absorbed on the trek from Jacksonville, FL -- the last time hed had a good dry out.
After car-topping him home, Id scrubbed the gunk off his bottom and carried him into the basement where hes been resting on saw horses for over a year and a half, while I refitted the Blue Moon, which was in more urgent need of scraping, painting, and re-rigging.
However, with the Blue Moon now in pretty good shape, it is definitely time to give Cabin Boy the TLC he so richly deserves. Helena and I move him to my workbench a few days ago, where I could put some light on him, and finally take a good look at the scars left on him by King Neptune.
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| An old friend ready for some TLC |
First, the good news. As Im sure I mentioned back in the day, the John Atkin designed Cabin Boy has never leaked a drop. The combination of white oak, quality marine plywood, and glued lapstrake construction resulted in a mighty strong and water-tight boat. I carefully inspected all his seams under the light, and could not find a glue joint that looked worse for wear. And that is despite the fact that I did not understand the need to use fillers with epoxy. All the joints on Cabin Boy are straight, un-thickened epoxy. Either Ive been very lucky, or I did a darn good job on making those joints fit tight. (Im betting on luck!)
Cabin Boys transom is a single mahogany board. You will recall I didnt have time to varnish it, so I tried using linseed oil -- a finish some boat builders swear by, but I swear at.
I did try to keep up with it, re-applying the oil whenever I could, but it just wasnt good enough. I probably should have painted it a long time ago, but never had the heart. The plan is to give it a good sanding and many coats of the varnish it has been waiting for.
The seats were another rush job that just barely did the job. They were cut from some leftover marine plywood. Left unfinished, except for a few linseed oil treatments, theyve weathered but are still structurally sound with no de-laminations, despite sun, rain, and general mistreatment. Another testament to quality marine ply.
The seats were always a stop-gap measure; they will be pulled out and replaced by comfy sternsheets and a fore-and-aft rowing seat that Ill no doubt discuss in detail in a later post.
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| These lousy plywood seats gotta go! And the galvanized rowlocks, too! |
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| Slightly cupped keelson needs to be fastened to the bottom. |
Very, very mysterious, but easily fixable.
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| The mysterious gap. |
Cabin Boy is so stiff, he doesnt really need gunnels, but I want to install them anyway, just for looks. But should I replace these knees or do they just need a good sanding? Ill soon find out.
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| These knees are in worse shape than mine! |
One reason I didnt finish them 2 years ago was they proved more difficult to fit than I expected. Cabin Boys sheer twists and curves in a complex shape and I could not figure out how to fit the inwales properly. I gave it a few hours, but had to quit in disgust and head down to Steinhatchee.
My new bronze rowlocks will fit into a small spacer block that fits between the sheerstrake and inwale. I made a block of the correct size, and used it to mark the location and depth of notches in the frames. These notches are a bit of a kluge, I think, but will put the inwale at the correct angle to and distance from the sheer strake.
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| Cutting notches for inwales |
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| Test fitting the inwales |
But that was just a dry fit, of course. At the moment, Im removing bits, not adding them! Only the hull seams are glued, so with a bit of quick work with a screwdriver, the seats, knees and rusted rowlocks were soon out of the boat.
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| Seats, knees, and rowlocks removed |
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| Cleared for work |
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| Battle scars |
>>> Next Episode: Daemon Chafe
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Sunday, February 1, 2015
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Earliest Pacific Seafaring but no boats!
(Photo by Stephen Alvarez, from National Geographic, March 2008)
The current (March 2008) issue of National Geographic contains an intriguing article, Beyond the Blue Horizon, by Roff Smith, about the earliest colonizers of the Pacific. Many of us who have an interest in indigenous boats know something about the renowned navigational and seamanship skills of the Polynesians, and its easy to picture boats not too much unlike the familiar Polynesian canoe doing the work of exploration and colonization a thousand or two years ago. According to the article, however, that wasnt necessarily the way it was.
As much as 30,000 years ago, the far western Pacific, covering New Guinea, Australia, and the Solomon Islands, had already been settled by peoples originating in Taiwan. There they stayed until 1300 BC or so, when a people now called the Lapita rather suddenly, and in very small but well-equipped groups, set out to intentionally colonize points east, island-hopping as far as Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa, where they quickly wiped out a huge number of species but apparently lived comfortably for all that. The islands in this area are close enough to one another so that insightful mariners would have had a number of good clues that something existed not too far over the horizon, and this would have given them the confidence to set out on voyages of discovery. The whole wave of colonists numbered only a few thousand and, when spread across the hundreds and hundreds of islands that they colonized, population density never appeared to have been a problem or the incentive to keep moving. They left some very nice-looking pottery but, alas, no boat artifacts.
There the migration stopped for 1200 years or so, until the people whom we now know as the Polynesians once again moved east into Polynesia, ultimately going as far as Hawaii, Easter Island, and even South America (there is, according to the article, good evidence for this last). The islands in this region are much further separated from one another than in the western half, and voyages of discovery would have been much iffier propositions, fraught with far more danger and uncertainty. The driving mechanism of the migration is disputed. It could have been intentional wanderlust enabled by the confidence born of good seamanship and boats capable of tacking into the wind, or random dispersal caused by bad luck and an inability to avoid being blown to windward. No one knows what the boats were like, or whether they had rigs capable of tacking into the wind. The latter theory, however, seems weak, when one considers that every inhabitable island throughout the eastern Pacific was in time inhabited. Its hard to credit the notion that every island population was the result of an unplanned "voyage" by some hapless couple (and there must have been both genders aboard, not just a single fisherman) who just managed to survive and make landfall after weeks or months of aimless drifting.
Unfortunately, virtually nothing is know of the boats used by either the Lapita or these early Polynesians -- not a single scrap of a boat artifact has been recovered from the former, and literally just a few scraps of one boat from the latter -- not enough to reveal anything about the sailing rigs used. But unless one accepts the "random bad luck" theory, it would appear that as much as 3300 years ago, the ancestors of the Polynesians were already competent mariners with competent boats -- if only we could learn what they were like!
Wedge Issues
Building this simple wedge is a perfect example. On the face of it, it seems incredibly simple. Just build a simple wedge, and bolt it on the transom.
Ah, but then God created the details.
The details are what get you, every time.
So, back in NY, I lavished 4 coats of oil paint on my beautifully crafted wedge.
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| Boring the holes for 3/8" bolts photo jalmberg |
I drilled the holes free hand, with a bit of help from Helena, who helped me keep the bit square to the wood.
Then I made the bolts I needed from 3/8" stainless steel threaded rod. The rod came in 3 lengths. I just cut off what I needed with a hacksaw, and then cleaned up the ends with a die. Another tool I never thought Id need! Actually, I needed this tool very badly for a different reason, later on.
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| Cleaning threads with die photo jalmberg |
After flying down to Jacksonville with 175 lbs of luggage (heavy motor bracket, block of wood, any number of books, clothing for hot and cold weather... it adds up!), my first job was to remove the old motor mount.
This was one of those jobs that was so frustrating, I forgot to take any photos. The old bracket was fastened to the hull with 4 bolts. Unfortunately, only 2 of the nuts were accessible on the inside of the boat. Someone had epoxied some wood over the other two nuts so it was impossible to remove them.
After consulting with some dock watchers, I accepted the loan of an electric angle grinder. This is basically a hand-held grinding wheel. The idea was to use this fearsome tool to grind the heads off the 2 stuck stainless steel bolts. Simple, if you dont mind leaning over the edge of a dock, holding an ungrounded power tool with a dubious cord, while creating a veritable fountain of sparks.
But, do or die, I always say.
I didnt die, and grinding off the heads did get the old bracket off.
Unfortunately, my carefully planned wedge did not fit. It would be too tedious to explain why it didnt fit. But it didnt. Long story short, I had to trim the angle of my wedge to make the bracket fit on the transom. All I had was my Japanese pull saw. The dock watchers said it couldnt be done, but, do or die...
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| Trimming block... the hard way photo jalmberg |
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| Happiness in black |
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